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How much noise is a little noise?

June 28th, 2011 No comments

I got my Cobalt 6-pack

a couple of weeks ago along with an NCE

Switch-8 and a Littfinski RS-8-G feedback module. If you read my last post you will know that I was looking forward to trying these out in particular because of the reviews these point motors received and because of the supposedly very low noise level. First off all let me say that after some initial hick-ups, primarily my own fault, I managed to get the Switch-8 to throw a switch. And let me just recommend reading the documentation to RocRail as addressing is not straight forward in itself. It will be when you read the documentation though. :-)

As part of getting the Switch-8 to work I brought it to a friends house to rule out that my LZV100 had an issue. I also brought along a Cobalt motor. Of course the Switch-8 worked the second we hooked it up but we discovered that the Cobalt motor made a very loud clicking sound when ever it cialis 10mg reviews reached the end of its throw. It almost sounded like a small spark or a short of some kind. Naturally this worried my a bit but since my Switch-8 was in fact working I didn’t pay to

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Arriving back home I was eager to hook the Switch-8 to my own system again, and of course it worked flawlessly when I did. It is a simple and effective little piece of gear

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and straight forward to use. Trying it out I connected one of the other Cobalts and strangely enough it didn’t have the clicking sound and moved slightly slower making a little less noise than the first. I decided to test all 6 cobalts and out of 6,

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4 had the clicking sound. One to the point where the motor would actually not stall at the end of does viagra raise your blood pressure a throw but start clicking away until power was either cut or it was thrown again. Having listened to the clicking sound I more or less decided that it was actually the sound of a gear skipping a tooth. But

how can that happen on 4 out of 6. Sounds like DCC Concepts, the company making the Cobalt, need to check up on their QA department. Well I sent the 4 faulty Cobalts back to my dealer and am now waiting for their replacement. I installed the remaining 2 and I have to admit they are very

nice to work with. Although not as noiseless as I was hoping for. So the question is: How much noise is a little noise? Reading on DCC Concepts web site it is easy to get the idea that they are practically silent. But they are not. In fact they are almost as noisy as the ESU Servos, which is a bit disappointing. Perhaps it has something to do with the module construction or the resonance in my room. :-)

To Cobalt Motors Installed.

Besides playing around with point motors I also had the time

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to solder the Littfinski RS-8-G I bought. I was a bit worried that it might not be that easy. I have been soldering electronic kits before but it was a long time ago so I wasn’t sure if anything had changed. Luckily the RS-8-G was very straight forward. The installation guide is really easy to follow and if you know how to properly solder electronic parts, theres

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My Littfinski RS-8-G kit finished

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it will be finished by then, so it will be ready when the autumn comes.

Enjoy the summer.

All track is layed and glued Ready for the wiring

Rebuilding Bemo/Shinohara Code 70 point for DCC

June 2nd, 2011 1 comment

As promised is here a image series on rebuilding a Bemo/Shinohara Code 70 point for DCC. If anything is unclear let me know and I’ll add some more detail. Directions for each step is provided in the image description.

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Track laying

May 18th, 2011 No comments

I know i promised a post on rebuilding Bemo Code 70 turnouts but I kind of forgot to take any pictures during the process and what good will a post on exactly that be with out any pictures. Good news is I only did 3 because that’s how many I had, so I still have to do 3 more. At which time I of course will take some pictures. :-)

But just to write a little about the process I managed to rebuild 3 and ruin 1 turnout. Call it a tuition fee if you will.

iphone_201105138102605

I’m pretty satisfied with the result and most importantly my engines run over the turnouts without any hick ups or problems what so ever.

Well, back to the track laying. I was lucky to get a good deal on almost 10m of Bemo Code 70 flex track on ebay. The seller had used them in his display cabinet, so they showed no trace of

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wear what so ever. At 20 euro for the lot it saved me roughly 70 euro if I had to buy them brand new.

With the 3 rebuilt turnouts and the flex track I was able to finish one end of Oberwald. The tracks are layed, servos and frog polarization are in place and dcc supply wires are attached to

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Code 70 was a serious pain in the ass, and i would agree very much with this. Unless you get out a small file to work the surface of the track. Once you do, soldering is pretty easy.

Another thing that annoyed me was the turnout servos. A while back I bought an ESU SwitchPilot Servo, a SwitchPilot Extension and 2 ESU 51803 servos. Now the SwitchPilot itself is very nice to work with. Setting up the address and the servo points and speed is really simple and can be done without any interaction from the command station. Just turn on the track power and use the buttons on the SwitchPilot Servo to set it all. As I understand it only the Servo version is this simple to program so consider this if you’re thinking about getting the regular SwitchPilot. The servos themselves however was not

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one of the servos I originally bought and even though the switch action is nice and slow the noise level is simply to loud and very distracting. Up to a point where I seriously considered the servo to be faulty. I needed one more servo to do my 3 turnouts so I wen’t out and bought an extra ESU servo. Since last ESU had released new servos with the numbers 51804 and 51805. As opposed to the 2 I already had, the new ones were supposed to be digital but to be perfectly honest I couldn’t really wrap my head around the difference in digital versus analogue in a servo. But never mind, the design was newer. The 51804 has plastic gears and the 51805 has metal gears. The 51803′s that I already had, have plastic gears. To my dispair, the noise levels in the newer 51804 was even louder than my old ones. What is going on here. Are micro servos supposed to make that much noise. I thought that one of the reasons besides slow actions, compared

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to regular switch magnet, was the avoid the loud clack noise. But the noise that these servos produce is simply overwhelming. Is it just me???

Well, I will get some more turnouts within the next couple of weeks and I promise that this time I will do a full photo series of how to rebuild them. Until then.

iphone_201105138102658 iphone_201105138102855

Ready for tracks

April 26th, 2011 No comments

iphone_201104115091135Over the easter holiday i gave the modules a coat if paint and glued on the cork base.
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it would be that difficult to get my hands on 4mm cork sheets but I was wrong. I looked in several store but the best i could get was 2mm cork sheets which would work but wasn’t ideal. So I ended up buying my cork sheets on eBay from United Foam Industries in germany. To be fairly honest I had no idea about the price if cork but i ended up paying 7 euros pr. square meter which was ok. Luckily the guy at UFI threw in about 12 sqm if 2 mm cork for free which was really nice.

Actually this was the second time I got something for free(see this post). Maybe this model railroading is not that expensive after all. :-)

Before I start laying the tracks i still need to fix the Bemo Code 70 turnouts for dcc. I was a bit nervous about this

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but going through some forums i managed to find some good advice on how to go about this, so expect a post on this shortly.

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Categories: Construction Tags: , ,

The first modules

April 8th, 2011 1 comment

I’ve been working on my first 2 modules the last couple of

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weeks. It’s been quite interesting as I haven’t really worked that much with wood constructions before. I do however have a fair bit of confidence in my handy man skills so it was kind of nice to put them to a test.

Overall everything went pretty well. I bought a decent jigsaw before I wen’t to work and it has been working out really good as long as used some kind of guide to steer the cut. Cutting “free hand” is really not recommended if you need at nice

straight cut, so I used a long ruler to help me out. I simply marked the cut line and the offset for the jigsaw and fastened the ruler with a pair of clamps.

I used what the store called Radiatta Pine Plywood. It’s a 5 layer pine plywood. In hindsight I should have probably spent

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I’m not following a specific module standard so the exact fit of the end pieces are not

crucial. Further more these first 2 modules are for Oberwald and are therefore fitted with 150x500mm end pieces. Oberwald is situated in the bottom of the Goms cialis price at walmart valley on a fairly large flat plain so there is no need for mountain scenery just yet.

If you look at the pictures you’ll see that there is nothing fancy to the construction method. I just used the ordinary white wood glue and some screws.

With the modules assembled, they need

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a light sanding to take of the rough edges, some plaster to even out the leveled screws and finally a coat of base paint to seal of the plywood.

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Categories: Construction Tags: , ,

Hard concrete

March 1st, 2011 No comments

This past week i started putting up the rack mounts http://viagraprofessional-100mg.com/ for the shelving system I will be using. This is basically just a system with vertical rack mounts that you can

attach the shelve brackets to.

The rack mounts of course needed to be fixed to the wall and i knew that the basic basement wall

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was solid, and very hard, concrete. 2 months ago we

had a ventilation hole drilled in 2 of the basement rooms and the guy drilling them was quite surprised with how much flint was mixed in with the concrete. It usually took him 45 min to drill a 10cm diameter hole but it took ham almost 3 hours per hole at our basement.

As mentioned the

house is 80 years old so naturally how to use cialis the previous owner had his attention to the indoor climate of the basement. Which is probably why he installed 50mm of polystyrene and 13 mm of dry wall on the inside of the concrete wall.

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regular dry wall fasteners but soon had to realize that as soon as a little force was put on the shelve bracket the dry wall board simply moved away from the wall. Not very comforting to build my modules on that. So I had to

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With the shelve brackets up its time to get started on the modules. Station Oberwald is the first one to come. I figure it will take some time to put together which is why there is no rush with the rest of the shelve brackets. :-)

Shelve brackets are up 4 is the lucky number

Planning

February 9th, 2011 No comments

Time for an update. We are more or less settled in the new house. Most of the

things we set out to do when we moved in are done.

This means that i have decided on which room in the basement to use for

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my layout. It’s a room roughly 3×3,7 m in size. My current idea is to have a layout that runs along the wall. I was thinking of having 2 levels but I’m not sure that the room has enough space for 2 helixes. So currently I’m planning on 1 level only with a connecting piece of track that will allow the track to pass the door.

As for the scenery I’m thinking 2 stations with connecting lines between them. I really want to model the

real world so I have more or less decided that one of the stations is going to be Oberwald around 1979-80. This is before the station was extended viagra and ejaculation due to the Furka Base Tunnel and will allow me to run trains with the old and the new livery as the change to the red and white colors happened in that period. It also gives me the oppertunity to have a station that is more than just

2 tracks. Oberwald was the end of

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to scale with the size of room i have at my disposal.

As soon as i get a little further i will post my first layout sketches. And hopefully i will have some comments to help my finish them.

Until then……

The railroad room My Bemo collection
Categories: Construction, Layout Tags: , ,